My trip to North Korea's 'Benidorm' - flanked by guards and full of rules

North Korea's 'Benidorm': A Glimpse Behind the Gilded Gates of Wonsan-Kalma

Imagine a pristine beach, the kind you’d expect on the Mediterranean coast. Now imagine that beach nestled in North Korea, a country shrouded in mystery and often depicted through a lens of political tension. This is the reality of the Wonsan-Kalma Coastal Tourist Area, a ambitious project touted by Pyongyang as its answer to international beach resorts. Anastasia, a Russian visitor and one of the first to experience this burgeoning tourist zone, recently shared her unique perspective with the BBC, painting a picture of "immaculate" shores, hearty meals, and an ever-present, guiding hand of regulation.

A Tourist Enclave Under Strict Supervision

Anastasia’s journey to North Korea's self-proclaimed "Benidorm" was not a spontaneous backpacking adventure. Such trips are meticulously planned, with every detail orchestrated by the state. Flanked by guards and adhering to a rigid itinerary, her experience was a stark reminder that even in a place designed for leisure, the overarching control of the North Korean government remains paramount. This isn't a destination where one can simply wander off the beaten path; every step is accounted for.

"It was very clean, very organised," Anastasia recounted, describing the resort. The beaches, often the main draw for any coastal destination, were apparently a highlight. "Immaculate," she stated, a word that evokes images of untouched beauty. But this pristine environment, like everything else in North Korea, is maintained under a watchful eye. The guards, while perhaps not overtly menacing in her description, were a constant presence, a silent testament to the country's security apparatus.

The resort, located on the eastern coast, is a significant investment for North Korea, aiming to attract foreign currency and showcase a different facet of the nation. It's an ambitious undertaking, an attempt to present an image of modernity and prosperity to the outside world. But how much of that image is genuine, and how much is carefully curated for the benefit of the visitor? That's the million-dollar question, isn't it?

Meaty Meals and the Rules of Engagement

Beyond the beaches, Anastasia also spoke of the culinary offerings. "Meaty meals," she reported, suggesting a substantial and perhaps unexpected abundance of food. In a country often associated with food shortages, this detail is noteworthy. Was this a standard offering for all visitors, or a deliberate display for the select few? The context of a state-controlled tourist experience makes it difficult to discern.

However, the enjoyment of these amenities came with a strict set of rules. Anastasia alluded to a constant awareness of what was permitted and what was not. This is the North Korean way, a system where adherence to guidelines is not just encouraged, but mandated. Imagine trying to relax on a beach when you’re constantly thinking about whether you’ve broken a rule. It's a peculiar form of relaxation, to say the least.

These rules likely extend to interactions with locals, photography, and even casual conversations. The experience of foreign tourists in North Korea is always a delicate dance, a performance of sorts, where understanding and respecting the boundaries is crucial for a smooth visit. One wrong move, one misplaced photograph, and the carefully constructed facade could crumble, leading to unforeseen consequences.

A Window into a Controlled Paradise

The Wonsan-Kalma resort, when completed, is intended to feature hotels, amusement parks, and a water park. It’s a vision of a holiday destination that, on the surface, resembles many others around the globe. Yet, the context of its creation and operation makes it entirely unique. It’s a controlled paradise, a meticulously crafted illusion designed to impress.

Anastasia's account provides a rare, albeit limited, insight into this controlled environment. Her description of "immaculate" beaches and "meaty meals" offers a tantalizing glimpse of what North Korea wants the world to see. But the ever-present guards and the strict rules serve as a constant reminder of the reality behind the polished facade. It’s a destination that promises relaxation, but demands vigilance. Is it a true holiday experience, or a carefully managed exhibition? Perhaps it’s a bit of both.

The success of Wonsan-Kalma will ultimately depend on its ability to attract a steady stream of tourists willing to navigate its unique constraints. For now, it remains an intriguing, if somewhat unnerving, proposition – a beach resort where the sand is clean, the food is plentiful, and the guards are always on duty. It’s a story that continues to unfold, one carefully managed visit at a time.

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