Fashion risks going backwards on diversity, says ex-Vogue boss

Fashion Risks Going Backwards on Diversity, Warns Ex-Vogue Boss

A stark warning has emerged from the highest echelons of the fashion industry: the progress made in diversity and inclusivity is in danger of being reversed. Alexandra Shulman, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has voiced serious concerns that the industry is regressing, with a narrow definition of beauty – specifically, being “super-thin” and European – once again being presented as the aspirational norm.

Shulman, who helmed British Vogue for 25 years and is widely credited with shaping its modern identity, made these pointed observations in a recent interview, sparking a fresh wave of debate about the true state of representation in fashion. Her words carry significant weight, given her intimate knowledge of the industry's inner workings and its powerful influence on societal perceptions of beauty.

The former editor's assessment suggests a disheartening return to a pre-diversity era, where a singular, often unattainable, ideal dominated runways, magazine covers, and advertising campaigns. "What I'm seeing is that the 'norm' has become super-thin and European again," Shulman stated, her words resonating with a sense of disappointment and urgency.

This sentiment is particularly concerning in light of the significant strides the fashion world had appeared to be making in recent years. The #MeToo movement, coupled with a growing global awareness of social justice issues, had spurred a more conscious effort towards inclusivity. We saw a rise in models of diverse ethnicities, body types, and abilities gracing campaigns and catwalks. Brands began to embrace a broader spectrum of beauty, seemingly acknowledging that their customer base was far more varied than the narrow aesthetic they had historically promoted.

But is this progress merely a fleeting trend, a well-intentioned but ultimately superficial shift? Shulman’s observation implies that the underlying structures and preferences within the industry may not have fundamentally changed. The pressure to conform to a particular look, she suggests, is resurfacing, potentially marginalizing those who do not fit this increasingly narrow mold.

The Return of the "Super-Thin" Ideal?

The emphasis on being "super-thin" is a particularly troubling aspect of Shulman’s warning. For decades, the fashion industry has been criticized for promoting unhealthy body image ideals, contributing to eating disorders and low self-esteem among impressionable audiences. While there had been a noticeable shift towards embracing a wider range of body shapes, Shulman’s comments suggest that this movement might be faltering.

What does "super-thin" truly represent in today's fashion landscape? Is it a return to the waif-like figures of the 1990s, or a more subtle, yet equally pervasive, pressure to maintain an extremely lean physique? Regardless of the precise interpretation, the message is clear: the industry risks alienating a significant portion of its audience by reverting to a beauty standard that is both unrealistic and potentially harmful.

Furthermore, the assertion that "European" is once again being positioned as "the norm" raises questions about the global nature of fashion. The industry has long been dominated by Western aesthetics, but the growing influence of diverse cultures and perspectives had begun to challenge this hegemony. If European features are once again being prioritized, what does this mean for designers, models, and consumers from other parts of the world?

Beyond the Runway: The Broader Impact

The influence of fashion extends far beyond the catwalks and glossy pages of magazines. It shapes our perception of beauty, our sense of self-worth, and even our aspirations. When the industry presents a limited view of who is considered beautiful or desirable, it sends a powerful message to society at large.

Shulman's concerns are not just about aesthetics; they are about representation and the normalization of certain identities. If the fashion industry, which has such a prominent global voice, begins to backtrack on its commitment to diversity, it could have a ripple effect across other industries and cultural spheres. It could signal to marginalized communities that their presence and their beauty are no longer valued or sought after.

The former British Vogue editor's comments come at a time when consumers are increasingly demanding authenticity and inclusivity from the brands they support. In an era of social media, where diverse voices can be amplified, brands that fail to reflect the reality of their customer base risk being called out and boycotted. So, is this a case of a few powerful voices within the industry failing to keep pace with the evolving expectations of the public?

What's Driving This Potential Regression?

The reasons behind this alleged regression are complex and multifaceted. Is it a conscious decision by certain influential figures to revert to a more traditional aesthetic? Or is it a more insidious, perhaps unconscious, bias that has resurfaced?

One possibility is that the economic pressures within the fashion industry are leading to a consolidation of ideas, with brands opting for what they perceive as "safe" or "proven" aesthetics. In a competitive market, the pursuit of profit might inadvertently lead to a disregard for the nuances of diversity and inclusion.

Another factor could be the cyclical nature of fashion trends. While diversity has been a dominant theme in recent years, it's possible that the industry is experiencing a shift back towards more established, perhaps even nostalgic, ideals. However, this should not come at the expense of progress.

Shulman’s perspective offers a critical lens through which to examine these trends. Her tenure at British Vogue was marked by a willingness to push boundaries and challenge conventions. Her current concerns, therefore, should be taken seriously as a valuable insight into the potential pitfalls facing the industry.

The Path Forward: Rekindling the Diversity Dialogue

The fashion industry stands at a crossroads. It has the power to shape perceptions and influence culture. The question remains: will it embrace a truly diverse and inclusive future, or will it succumb to the allure of a backward-looking, narrow definition of beauty?

The voices of figures like Alexandra Shulman are crucial in keeping this dialogue alive. It is imperative that designers, editors, stylists, and brand executives actively challenge any resurgence of exclusionary practices. This means championing models of all shapes, sizes, ethnicities, and abilities, and ensuring that fashion narratives reflect the rich tapestry of humanity.

The industry needs to move beyond tokenism and embrace genuine, systemic change. This involves fostering diverse talent behind the scenes, challenging unconscious biases, and creating platforms where a multitude of voices can be heard and celebrated. The future of fashion, if it is to remain relevant and impactful, must be one that is inclusive of everyone. The alternative, as Shulman's warning suggests, is a disappointing and unsustainable step backwards.